Written by Holly Salt DipWSET
When I travelled to South Africa for the first time on a buying trip in September 2025, I wasn’t quite prepared for the scale of everything.
The landscapes, the light, the distances. Vineyards stretched between mountains and oceans, often looking as dramatic as they taste. It’s a country that feels both vast and intense: beautiful, but never gentle.
It was a very concentrated trip, packed with tastings, winery visits, lots of conversations, and long drives through extraordinary scenery.
And by the end of it, one thing was very clear.
The wines were very different from what I had expected.
Not in a loud or headline-grabbing way. More in the quiet, confident sense that South Africa had its finger on a disparate pulse and that it was no longer trying to prove anything. It was simply expressing itself, and its terroir, in a way that isn’t widely appreciated or acknowledged yet.
And in wine, that’s usually when the most interesting things begin to happen.
The era of power: where it all began
To understand where South African wine is today, it helps to look back a little.
In the late 1990s and early 2000s, the country was re-entering global markets after decades of isolation. Producers were eager to show what they could do. International critics were paying attention, and export markets were growing fast.
At the time, the global benchmark for “quality” was clear:
· ripe fruit;
· noticeable oak;
· higher alcohol;
· concentration and richness.
South Africa followed that path and, to be fair, did it very well.
These wines helped put the country back on the map. They built confidence, stability and reliability for consumers and this has since opened doors.
They also made perfect sense in context.
Why things started to change
Over time, however, something shifted.
Winemakers began to question whether these powerful styles really reflected their vineyards and more crucially, what they wanted to drink. Consumers started to look for freshness and drinkability. Climate patterns became more unpredictable. Younger producers travelled widely and tasted broadly.
Slowly, the idea took hold that “international style” didn’t have to mean “international flavour”.
There was more to say, and certainly more interesting ways to say it.
The new generation: confidence without noise
Today’s leading South African producers are not reacting against the past. They’re simply moving forward.
What defines the new wave is restraint rather than rebellion.
You see it in:
· earlier harvesting;
· gentler extraction;
· less new oak;
· more neutral vessels;
· greater attention to site.
The result are wines that feel lighter on their feet, more transparent, and more expressive.
Chenin Blanc leads the way, as it so often does, but it’s far from alone. Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah are being reimagined. Even traditionally “serious” varieties are being handled with a lighter touch.
It’s precision without pretension. Confidence without noise.
Which, in wine, is harder than it sounds.
To explore these new styles in the glass, we’ve put together a six-bottle South African case reflecting this shift in approach: South Africa Reimagined – From Power to Precision. The selection is designed for slow discovery rather than quick conclusions.
Old vines, new thinking
One of South Africa’s greatest assets is its remarkable stock of old vines.
Many were planted decades ago, long before anyone thought they were special. For years, they were simply there.
Now, they’re being understood properly.
Projects such as the Cape Old Vine Project have helped highlight their importance, but the real change has been cultural. Growers and winemakers are treating these vineyards not as relics, but as living assets.
Old vines are not used to chase power. They’re used to express balance, depth and quiet complexity.
It’s tradition, reinterpreted intelligently.
How South Africa compares today
What’s particularly striking is how naturally South Africa now sits alongside the world’s most respected wine regions.
In terms of style and philosophy, it increasingly shares ground with:
· modern Loire producers;
· cooler-climate Australia;
· northern Spain;
· parts of California’s coastal regions.
Nobody can deny that there’s the same focus on freshness, the same respect for site selection nor the same preference for substance over style.
Yet South Africa retains its own identity: a generosity of fruit, a brightness of light, and a sense of place that feels unmistakably its own.
It’s not copying anyone anymore, and that’s precisely why I find it so compelling.
What this means for drinkers
For wine lovers, this evolution is very good news.
Modern South African wines tend to be:
· more food-friendly;
· easier to drink;
· less tiring;
· more versatile;
· better value than many European equivalents.
They work just as well on a Tuesday evening as they do at a long weekend lunch.
They reward attention without demanding it.
And they rarely leave you wondering why you opened a second bottle quite so quickly.
Our growing fascination with South Africa has naturally led us to deepen our work in this area. Today, our portfolio includes over 40 South African producers, offering a diverse and quietly eclectic perspective on the country’s evolving wine scene.
A quiet confidence
What I find most exciting about South Africa today is its sense of calm. There’s no rush to impress; no need to follow fashions. No anxiety about reputation.
Producers know what they have, and they know what they’re capable of. They’re also unapologetically comfortable letting their vineyards speak for themselves.
The journey from power to precision hasn’t been about abandoning ambition, it’s been about redefining it.
And for anyone paying attention, it’s a story very much worth following.
